Hay! in the Haymarket

The march of the eating establishment chains provokes strong feelings, often negative.

Regulation concerning Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas can provide some check on external appearance, but the commercial imperative for landlords drives rents up in locations where occupier demand is strong, and challenges independent businesses to survive.

Central London may be considered fair game by the property investor and developer market. Surely, it could be said, this is a hotch potch world where there must be enough footfall for anyone to survive.

That view is misguided, and if you want a case study look at the story of the campaign to keep the wonderful Gaby’s Deli (near Leicester Square) alive.

So in view of this, it is pleasing to be able to give a cheer to Pizza Express (which despite my love of the independents I am happy to use for its consistency of standards and helpful staff).

The Haymarket branch sits in a street “steeped in history”, as one says. It was a hay and straw market from the mid 1600s until the market was removed to Cumberland Market on the eastern edge of Regent’s Park in 1830, it was a notorious haunt of prostitution in the 1700s (as reported by James Boswell through his scholarly and less scholarly researches), and yet it also contains the Theatre Royal Haymarket, the current theatre being a John Nash design from 1820 with a magnificent Corinthian columned portico  - try the view from the eastern end  of St James’s Square.

So what of Pizza Express, Haymarket? Well, it has troubled to put up an inscription inside the restaurant:
 

A nice nod to the past, though what draws the eye more is this on the opposite wall.

Reaction will depend on one’s taste, but I think it is fun and has a touch of style about it. What do you think?

Incidentally, I ate somewhere recently where they offered “hay-baked lamb”. Having no culinary expertise, I was quite befuddled by this. It sounds rather Nigella, and perhaps someone might enlighten me on what the hay contributes to the taste of the dish.

The author is a City of London and City of Westminster Guide, who runs walking tours in the City and in Westminster. See tabs for further details.